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Esculapia Springs: A Famous Resort from 1840s to 1912. In Greek mythology, Esculapius (Aesculapius), the god of medicine, was often associated with mineral springs, which were believed to bring good health to those who drank from them. As with the Greeks, many people of the 18th and 19th centuries attributed various healing and restorative qualities to the waters of mineral springs. Even a natural spring added value to an otherwise ordinary tract of farm land. Around the mineral springs there developed so-called "watering holes" or resorts, some of which became very famous. Many wealthy people spent long summer vacations drinking the waters and relaxing in their restful environments. It was believed that the water could restore precious minerals and salts to the body, especially for those who had experienced a long exhausting winter of illnesses. Even to this day, various types of mineral waters are considered beneficial to one's diet - so much so that not only health-food stores, but ordinary grocery stores, stock their shelves with these bottled waters. Esculapia Springs and to a lesser degree, its neighbor Glen Springs, became popular health resorts quite early in the history of this county. These springs, located near the foot of Esculapia Mountain at the head of Big Salt Lick Creek, once were known and visited by hundreds of people from distant cities throughout the summer months. In this article we shall attempt to follow the history of the Esculapia and Glen Springs resorts together rather than separately. Some of the springs were located on what is now the Walker farm on Salt Lick, and the Esculapia resort was in the general area across the road from the old Jones Graveyard. McCormick's Springs was an earlier name for Glen Springs, and it seems that around 1850 James McCormick operated a hotel or boarding house there. First Resort Built about 1846 We do not know who gave Esculapia its name. The earliest reference we can find to it is in an old court order book when John Powling, an Englishman, who had settled near the foot of Esculapia Mountain, was granted a license in 1822 to operate a tavern. He was followed in 1826 by Peter January (a Frenchman whose original name was Pierre Janvier). Both Powling and January eventually moved to Maysville, where January and his descendants became very active in politics, business, and manufacturing. January's place was sometimes called the White Sulphur Springs Tavern. By the year 1846, a man named Marcus T.C. Gould, a native of New York, who had been living in Cincinnati, came to Lewis County, and invested in a huge tract of land surrounding the Esculapia Springs area. In April of that year, Gould contracted with Dr. Archibald Miles to give him (Miles) the "sole privilege of erecting at Esculapia Springs buildings and appurtenances necessary to conduct all the sports and diversions usual to watering places in the United States." Miles was also given the right to erect a building to sell goods and wares. So, it seems that prior to 1846, although several small taverns were erected in the area, it was only at that time that Gould established a resort hotel. Abner Hitchcock, who also came from Cincinnati, was hired to run a temporary boarding house for the workers who were erecting the hotel. Life for Hitchcock was not easy. Gould made a contract with Robert Davis to supply milk for the workers, but Davis left the country without providing cows, and Hitchcock, with the assistance of George Cropper and James McCormick, finally acquired three cows, and these were milked daily by Hitchcock's daughters to supply milk for the workers. It seems that within a year or so of Hitchcock's arrival, the Esculapia resort was open for business. According to Dugan's history, the Esculapia Mineral Springs Co. was incorporated in 1849, with Marcus T.C. Gould, William C. Halbert and Mark Wallingford acting as directors with an authorized capital of $50,000. Apparently Hitchcock stayed on as manager of the resort and operated a retail dry goods store as well. The Maysville Eagle, of June 6, 1850, states that Frank M. Cockerill had become superintendent of the Esculapia Springs by that time. The business seemed to start off fairly well, with visitors coming from Cincinnati; Louisville; Athens, Ohio; Mason County; and Lewis County. Then that dreadful specter, cholera, visited the site and frightened away many would-be-patrons. The Eagle stated in the July 13, 1850, issue that Dr. Nesbitt Taylor was visiting Esculapia Springs for the summer, but while he was there several persons became ill with cholera. We assume that Dr. Taylor acted as their physician. It is ironic that a cholera epidemic broke out there because it was a belief among the people of that day that drinking pure, clean mineral water would keep the dreaded disease at bay. This must surely have been a grave disappointment for the owners. Looking at the situation in retrospect, it is not surprising that cholera broke out at Esculapia because there was an inflow of people from large population centers coming and going at Esculapia. Modern epidemiologists can trace the route of the cholera epidemic from the east coast cities via the Erie Canal to the Ohio valley. At that time, people did not realize how the disease was contracted and with so many people from so many different places coming into Esculapia, living together with no knowledge of modern hygiene, a perfect disaster was in the making. A picture of the diverse population can be drawn from the 1850 census records. At the hotel operated by Marcus T.C. Gould, there were both Germans and Irish working and living there. The Germans were: John and Margaret Shofer and their two children, John and Emma; H. Hostindick; Frank Emon; John Myers; James Kall; Michael Hynn; and William O. Bruis. The Irish were: John and Ann Karigan, and Patrick and Ann Ward. John Mackey, a carpenter from Pennsylvania, lived there, also. It is probable that these people had arrived in the U. S. through the port of an east coast city, then came down river to Cincinnati, and then were brought to Esculapia by Gould. (Coincidentally, there was another group of people coming into the area to work at the tanyards established by F.G. Shaw and Jesse R. Grant. As early as 1848, cases of cholera had broken out among the tanyard workers.) Gould's hotel business seemed to be falling apart by 1853. In that year, he had moved back to Cincinnati, and Hitchcock was taken to court by several of his creditors, one of them being Canfield & Moffatt, of Cincinnati, a supplier of much of Hitchcock's goods. The merchandise, usually shipped by packets to Vanceburg, was then taken by wagons or other conveyances to Esculapia. We know little about what happened with the Esculapia Springs resort between the mid-1850s and the mid-1870s. Apparently, it went through a succession of owners and by the end of the Civil War was in a very run-down condition. In an article published in the Manchester Gazette on November 14, 1867, the writer states that the once famous Esculapia Springs were in a state of deterioration: "The buildings, fences, etc., are now in ruins, but it is yet beautiful, and I hope the day is not too far distant when this property will be improved and made as popular as of old. Capt. Davy Arthur is in charge of the property, and is very obliging." (David W. Arthur and his family were still living at Esculapia as late as 1879.) Part II: Jones Rebuilds after Civil War (Need to start at the beginning? Jump back to Part I) It was sometime between the years 1867 and 1875 that William F. Jones, from the Jonesville area of Greenup County, acquired the property and started an extensive remodeling project to revive the old resort. Much of what we know of "the Jones era" comes from a series of articles written by Milford Keyes, of Portsmouth, Ohio, for the Portsmouth Tribune during the months of August and September, 1875. In these four installments, Keyes pictures Esculapia as a "dream world". He states that before the war [Civil War], Esculapia was a first-class watering hole visited by many people, but during the war the place had "gone down" until W.F. Jones had become proprietor. He described the hotel as being two stories in height, with broad piazzas running the entire front of both stories. Along the creek bank was a croquet ground. The parlors were large and well furnished, a "splendid piano being part of the outfit." In addition, there was a bowling alley. Keyes describes two springs: the Sulphur Spring and the Chalybeate Spring. The sulphur spring flowed from a shale formation on the side of a mountain across the road from the hotel and, of course, smelled strongly of sulphur. The chalybeate spring (mineral water with generous amounts of iron salts) was close by the road and its location was marked by the russet iron deposit it left in its flow. People in those days seemed to have the idea that the "nastier" something tasted, the better it was for one's health, and so the ladies and gentlemen both drank copious amounts of the water, often before breakfast.
We know from various issues of the Vanceburg Courier that most visitors to the springs arrived by steamboat at Vanceburg where they were taken by livery on the 13-mile journey. In the summer of 1875, Keyes gives us a picture of the types of people who were visiting at the springs: merchants and their families from Maysville; charming young ladies "in company with numerous refined and graceful married ladies" from Maysville and May's Lick; young married couples and their children from Jamestown, Ohio, and Kinmundy, Illinois. The following individuals were named: James Pye, of Cincinnati; George K. Jenkins and Mrs. Elizabeth Jenkins, of Jamestown, Ohio; Miss Nannie M. Power, of Aberdeen, Ohio; Mrs. Stella Wilson and S.C. Wilson, of Kinmundy, Illinois; Milfored Keyes, Portsmouth, Ohio; A. R. Glascock, Maysville, Ky.; Henry Gramann, Cincinnati; and Miss Maria Louise (Ida) Warder, of May's Lick, Ky. How did the guests spend their time and amuse themselves? Keyes' engaging observation was that, "There is a freedom from conventionality at Esculapia that is enjoyable. . . ." He did not elaborate, but he did describe many of the activities, most of which seem quite gentle, contemplative, and domestic to us today. For example, he speaks of the delightfully cool evenings and the restful surroundings which made sleep come easy. The meals were well cooked and guests were served sulphur or chalybeate water in addition to tea and coffee, or freestone water if they wished. Mr. Jones had enclosed several large chestnut trees and many guests delighted in gathering the nuts. However, croquet and bowling were high on the list of daytime activities. Each day started at sun-up when Mr. W.F. Jones would ring the bell to awaken the guests and to announce the serving of breakfast. However, there was always time enough before breakfast to visit the springs, take a walk up the mountain road, or play a game of croquet. After breakfast the men would stroll and smoke, or gather in groups on the piazzas to chat. The ladies would stroll among the petunias and honeysuckles, gathering flowers to place in their hair. Afterwards, croquet parties would be formed, while others would go to the bowling alley. Those who did not want to play croquet or to bowl might go to the mountains, to the springs, or stay in the house and play "Authors". A dreamy picture, reminiscent of the movie Enchanted April, was painted by Keyes of life at Esculapia in the summer of 1875. We quote from him: "The sun is directly overhead and shining brightly down through the clear atmosphere that surrounds this hill-environed summer retreat. The croquet balls are now out there lying neglected in the grass; a group of gentlemen are lolling on the piazza, smoking and talking to each other, or gazing listlessly across the creek toward the distant mountain top. The children are playing in the brook just beyond the croquet field, while the old family dog is slumbering near them, unconscious of time or place until stung by a vagrant bee that is buzzing among the heliotropes, when he runs yelping to the children for sympathy, and received it with interest. From the open parlor windows comes the subdued sounds of voices, with the occasional flip of a card upon a polished table top, while overall is heard the rich tones of a superb 'Valley Gem', played softly and slowly in accompaniment of a low, sweet, cultivated voice, which is warbling in an undertone that beautiful aria from the 'Bohemian' girl, 'Then you'll remember me.' The air is delightfully pure and the azure sky is flecked all over with fleecy clouds that sail above the mountain tops and trail their shadows over hill and dale. There is a gentle murmur from the brook, the hum of bees comes from distant hives, song of birds is heard above the minor symphony of nature in the chirp of insects, and overall the cicada's song rises shrill, sharp, and metallic, reminding us that summer is in its glory and that the reign of the dog star is upon us."
Outdoor activities were encouraged at Esculapia. Visits were made to "the cave" nearby on the mountain top, and to the "glen" (sometimes referred to as the "sulphur glen"), and to the "alum spring". On these walks, the guests engaged themselves in innocent, harmless pastimes-gathering may apples and ferns, capturing terrapins, carving initials in the rocks with a pen knife, and sampling the different mineral waters. Keyes notes that for many years Esculapia visitors had carved their initials on these rocks and that each group tried to put its initials higher than the last. (The late James "Nickie" Prater once told this author that those initials are present and visible to this day.) The "Sulphur Glen", three-quarters of a mile from the hotel, was described as a wild gorge, strewn with large boulders, with a profusion of ferns growing along its banks. Several rustic bridges spanned the chasm. Mr. Jones, the proprietor, was "weight conscious" and every person was expected to weigh him/herself each day and note the amount of weight gained. In that day, gaining weight was considered a sign of healthiness and Mr. Jones wanted concrete evidence to show his patrons that staying at his place improved their health! As further proof of this belief, Mr. Keyes noted that a young lady from May's Lick had left a few days previous, happy that she had gained 13 pounds. We know little about what happened with the Esculapia Springs resort between the mid-1850s and the mid-1870s. Apparently, it went through a succession of owners and by the end of the Civil War was in a very run-down condition. In an article published in the Manchester Gazette on November 14, 1867, the writer states that the once famous Esculapia Springs were in a state of deterioration: "The buildings, fences, etc., are now in ruins, but it is yet beautiful, and I hope the day is not too far distant when this property will be improved and made as popular as of old. Capt. Davy Arthur is in charge of the property, and is very obliging." (David W. Arthur and his family were still living at Esculapia as late as 1879.) Part III: Esculapia Community and the Jones Family (Need to start at the beginning? Jump back to Part I) Keyes gives us a picture of the Esculapia neighborhood by describing some of the people who lived there. We will mention only two of them, Mrs. Walcott and "Aunt Betsy". A short distance down the road from the hotel was the home of Mrs. Sybil Walcott, a native of May's Lick, and described by Keyes as a lady of education and refinement. She and her husband evidently were nature lovers and their "Green Leaf Cottage" was surrounded by trees and the porch covered with vines, in which a cat bird and a red bird had built their nests and raised their broods every year. Mrs. Walcott was fond of poetry and had written some of her own verses. She had an artistic flair and expressed it in rare works of leaves, feathers, and ferns. Her home was always open to visits from the young people visiting the resort. When the Jones family came to Lewis County, they brought several of their servants with them. One of them was a large Black woman called "Aunt Betsy". She and her husband, who had served as house servants of Mr. Jones, were given a piece of ground by him at the end of the Civil War, and that is where they lived. "Aunt Betsy" was described as weighing 327 pounds; an average lady's belt would barely go around her arm. "She is black as the tincture of midnight, and it is needless to say is good-natured and happy." Her home was also a choice place for daily pilgrimages of children who visited the resort hotel. Keyes' narrative closed with a nostalgic description of the "unofficial" entertainment often present at the hotel, provided by servants at the resort, the majority of whom were descendants of former slaves. They were very fond of music and dancing. Every evening, fiddle music could be heard emanating from the kitchen, and sometimes the sound of flat-footed dancing. The children were particularly fond of this entertainment and often deserted their parents in the parlor in company with "Aunt Jane", the cook, to witness and enjoy the show. It was not uncommon for adults to stand quietly in the shadows, enjoying the music. But, if there was an untimely giggle or applause, the show was cut short, with the crowd being dispersed by "a little judicious passing around the hat." The Esculapia Hotel proprietor, William F. Jones, was a son of Rival D. Jones (1796-1864) and his wife, Mary Morton (1796-1878). They are buried in the old Jones Graveyard at Esculapia. This Jones family was associated with the Pugh family and Asberry Walker Fryer in the tanning business at Esculapia prior to the Civil War. All of the families (Jones, Morton, Pugh, and Fryer) were originally from Greenup County. The Pugh and Jones families were related through marriage. At the time of the Esculapia proprietorship of William F. Jones, he was married to his second wife, who was a daughter of Capt. E.C. Power, an old steamboat captain, who once commanded the Steamer Fashion. Power moved to Arkansas in 1881, and died in less than two years afterwards. Mr. Jones had a sister, Martha Morton Jones (1826-1912), who, with another sister, Louisa D. Jones (1828-1905), lived near him with their mother at Esculapia. In the obituary of Martha M. Jones in The Sun (Vanceburg), May 2, 1912, the editor says that she was born in Washington, Mason County, and received a good education for her day. Her father, Rival D. Jones, had 10 children and she was the last survivor. During her early womanhood, the first wife of her brother, William F. Jones, died leaving two little girls. Martha took charge of his home and, in addition to these two daughters, she agreed to care for and raise three other children who had been left orphans, one of them being Dr. Thomas S. Clark. She was a devout member of the Christian Church and known affectionately as "Aunt Mia." When Jones took over the operation of the Esculapia resort it was badly in need of renovations and additions, and some parts of it had burned. He soon set to work on the impressive changes which were in evidence when Keyes visited in 1875. The Vanceburg Courier of May 2, 1877, stated that Jones was making further valuable and extensive improvements, having erected a large addition to the main building giving him 187 and one-fourth feet front with a double porch. Also, a new dining room was built, the old one being partitioned into sleeping compartments. A neat new bath house for cold and hot baths had been erected.
Later Days of Esculapia By the summer of 1881, Esculapia had gained sufficient notoriety to merit a telephone line from Vanceburg to the area. The work of setting the telephone posts began on May 31, 1881. The Courier stated on June 29, 1881, the first telephone connection between Vanceburg and Esculapia was made and the first message sent at a quarter past two the previous Saturday afternoon. "The rest of the evening was spent in sending congratulatory dispatches, serenading, and introducing Vanceburg people to those of Esculapia. The nicest and noblest thing in the introductory line being Dr. Jas. Wells' (Jasper Moss Wells) polite bow upon being introduced through the telephone to a young lady 16 miles away; but that only showed the force of habit, arising from the Doctor's usual urbanity." We are not clear as to how long W.F. Jones continued operating the hotel, but the Courier stated on June 15, 1881, that Mr. B.F. Starr, of the Hotel Emery, in Cincinnati, would have charge of the Esculapia Springs during the coming season. The company was again incorporated in 1884 as the Esculapia Springs Company, with W.F. Jones, W.W. Bean, A.R. Mullins, J.W. Baldridge, John Gates, B.A. Wallingford, Geo. T. Hunter, Joseph Power, and A.H. Parker the incorporators. Some time during the early 1900s, Dr. C.M. Beech took over the operation of Esculapia and during his tenure an extremely unfortunate event took place in 1905. It is said that one of Dr. Beech's daughters was seriously ill, and H.F. Luman (or Lewman) came on the doctor's property and was loud and boisterous, making a nuisance of himself. Dr. Beech warned him repeatedly to leave, and Luman refused. An argument ensued, resulting in Dr. Beech firing a gun and fatally wounding Luman. A young woman named Bertha Durham, who had been living at Luman's home, was with him at the time. During the late 1880s, there was a Hezekiah Luman who had published an unsuccessful Vanceburg newspaper called The Republican, but we do not know of any relationship between Hiram F. Luman and Hezekiah Luman. Not long after the shooting affair, Beech left Lewis County, and a notice in The Sun of July 29, 1915, says that "Dr. Beach, former proprietor of Esculapia Springs, died of Bright's disease at his home in Morrow, Ohio, July 18, and was buried in Lebanon, Ohio." Following Dr. Beech, the buildings at Esculapia were acquired by William Hamrick, of Tollesboro. The Sun on August 8, 1912, announced that the hotel buildings of Esculapia Springs were destroyed by fire the previous Tuesday. It was noted that this was the second disastrous fire at the resort and that it was unlikely it would be rebuilt. Glen Springs was later turned into a boarding school and it, too, finally went up in flames. It was operating at least until 1917 because The Sun reported that Charles Hays, of Poplar Flat, had died of typhoid fever at Glen Springs College. A book itself could be written of the history of Esculapia Springs. Due to space constraints we have been forced to omit many details.
REFERENCES: Maysville Eagle, June 6, 1850, July 13, 1850, July 25, 1850; Manchester Gazette, Nov. 14, 1867; Portsmouth Tribune, Aug. 11, 1875, Aug. 18, 1875, Aug. 25, 1875, and Sept. 1, 1875; Vanceburg Courier, May 2, 1877; Vanceburg Times, Mar. 31, 1881, June 1, 1881, June 15, 1881, June 29, 1881, Feb. 14, 1883, Feb. 14, 1883, Aug. 8, 1912; The Sun (Vanceburg), Sept. 13, 1906, Aug. 8, 1912, July 29, 1915; History of Lewis County (1940), by Wm. C. Dugan; 1879 School Census of Lewis Co., Dist. 40; Lewis County Circuit Court Records, Files 3480, 3965, 3968, 4050, and 4073; Gravestone inscriptions from Jones Cemetery; U.S. Federal Census, 1850 & 1860; Research documents relating to the Pugh family (1973), by Junius T. Moore, Charleston, W. Va.; Private correspondence between Wm. M. Talley and S. J. Hanford, Stevensville, Md., July 31, 1992. Back to Top of Page
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